A screened-in patio turns an open slab into a room you can use during bug season, light rain, and the shoulder months when sun makes the space unbearable. It is usually the least expensive way to add usable outdoor square footage, and far less involved than a sunroom.
The phrase covers three projects that do not cost the same. Screening an existing covered patio may run a few thousand dollars. Starting from bare ground means building a roofed structure with footings, and the budget jumps by an order of magnitude. If you want the space heated, cooled, and counted in your home’s square footage, you are pricing a sunroom.
Last updated: October 1, 2026. Written for US homeowners. PatioHaven is independent and reader-supported; see our about page for how we research.
Disclosure: This guide is editorial and independent. We do not accept payment for product placement or rankings. Costs vary by region, site access, and season — treat every figure as a planning range.
What a Screened-In Patio Is (and What It Is Not)
A screened-in patio is a patio slab, usually at grade, with insect screen panels fitted between posts on its open sides. Most are built under a roof that already exists, which is why the project often costs less than homeowners expect. The screen is not structural: it keeps bugs and wind-blown debris out and does nothing to hold up the roof.
A screened porch is the same idea framed as part of the house, often raised and typically with a finished ceiling, knee walls, and framing designed from the start to carry a roof. Listings use the terms interchangeably, so two quotes for a “screened porch” can differ by tens of thousands of dollars.
A sunroom is glazed, insulated, and usually heated and cooled. As finished, conditioned space, it costs roughly two to four times a screened patio per square foot and needs a different permit path.
Benefits of a Screened-In Patio
Insect control
The main reason people screen a patio is mosquitoes. Standard 18×16 fiberglass or aluminum mesh stops mosquitoes, flies, and most flying insects, but not no-see-ums (biting midges), which pass through a standard weave. In humid or coastal areas, ask for 20×20 no-see-um mesh. Screening is never perfectly sealed; door gaps, thresholds, and vents are the weak points.
Sun, glare, and debris
A solar or shade screen, often rated 80 to 90 percent, cuts glare and radiant heat on a west- or south-facing patio and keeps out leaves, pollen, and dust. It also blocks light and views and reduces airflow, which can make a dim covered patio feel closed in, so many use solar screen on the sunny wall and standard mesh elsewhere.
Extended season
In the South and much of the Midwest, screening adds two to four usable months. In cold climates it is a three-season room: screens offer almost no insulation, so do not plan on winter use without a heat source.
Pet and child containment
Screening keeps a dog or toddler on the patio and strays and birds out, but it is a barrier, not a fence. A determined dog can tear standard fiberglass; pet screen, a heavier vinyl-coated polyester weave, resists claws far better. Screen is not a fall guard, so a raised porch with children needs a railing behind it.
Construction Approaches: Roof, Slab, and Framing
Screening an existing roof and slab
If the patio already has a roof and a crack-free slab, the project is mostly framing and screen: a top rail on the roof structure, posts anchored to the slab, and screen panels between them. Two things kill it: a slab that is cracked, heaved, or sloped the wrong way, and a roof never built to carry the added wind load of screens.
Building a new screened structure
Starting from bare ground means footings, a slab, posts, a roof, and screen. Footings must reach below the local frost line, roughly 12 inches in the Deep South to 48 inches or more in the northern states. That is why a new screened structure is priced like a small addition. Electrical is usually a separate line item.
Knee walls
A knee wall is a short solid wall, typically 24 to 36 inches tall, along the bottom of the screened walls. It stiffens the frame, protects lower screen from mowers and pets, and hides outlets, though it blocks some airflow.
Aluminum versus wood framing
Powder-coated aluminum is the default: it does not rot, holds color, and handles humidity and coastal salt far better than steel. Wood, usually pressure-treated or cedar, costs less up front and can be painted to match the house, but it needs repainting, can warp, and is vulnerable to termites and rot at the base. Steel is strong but rusts unless galvanized, so it is uncommon in humid markets.
Screen Types, Mesh Sizes, and Pet-Resistant Options
Mesh size is threads per inch in each direction; a larger number means a finer weave. Standard insect screen is 18×16, no-see-um is 20×20 or finer, and pet screen is a heavier weave, often 17×20 with thicker strands. Weave, strand thickness, and coating matter more than the material name on the box.
| Screen material | Typical mesh | Best for | Relative cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fiberglass | 18×16 | General insect control | $ | Cheapest to re-screen; sags and tears with age |
| Aluminum | 18×16 | Long life, moderate heat | $$ | Dents; specify vinyl-coated in salt air |
| Solar / shade | Varies, 80–90% shade | Glare and heat reduction | $$–$$$ | Blocks light and view; reduces airflow |
| No-see-um | 20×20 | Biting midges, humid regions | $$$ | Tighter weave cuts airflow and light |
| Pet screen | 17×20, heavy strand | Dogs and cats | $$$ | Resists claws and chewing; not chew-proof |
| Stainless steel | 18×16 | Coastal salt, high durability | $$$$ | Highest cost; best corrosion resistance |
A finer mesh blocks smaller insects but also blocks more airflow and light. And no screen is chew-proof: pet screen survives claws far better than fiberglass, but a bored dog can still work through it.
What a Screened-In Patio Costs
Costs split into three buckets: screening an existing roof and slab, building a new screened structure, and converting to a sunroom. The biggest driver is whether a roof and slab already exist. Site access, roof height, door count, and local labor move the number by 20 to 40 percent.
| Approach | 200 sq ft | 300 sq ft | 400 sq ft | What is included |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DIY screen kit over existing roof and slab | $600–$1,500 | $900–$2,000 | $1,200–$2,800 | Materials only; you supply the labor |
| Professional screening, existing roof and slab | $2,500–$6,000 | $3,500–$8,000 | $4,500–$10,500 | Framing, screen, door, labor |
| New screened structure (roof, slab, footings, frame) | $15,000–$32,000 | $22,000–$42,000 | $28,000–$55,000 | Structure and screen; electrical often extra |
| Sunroom conversion (glazed, insulated) | $25,000–$50,000 | $35,000–$65,000 | $45,000–$85,000 | Glazing and finish; HVAC often extra |
Regional labor is the biggest swing factor, so get three itemized quotes that separate framing, screen, doors, and electrical.
Permits, HOA Rules, and Climate Considerations
Permits
Permits depend on scope. Adding screen panels to an existing roof and slab sometimes qualifies as a minor repair, but many jurisdictions treat any roofed, enclosed addition as new construction requiring a permit, inspections, and sometimes an engineered drawing for wind and snow loads. Call the local building department before ordering materials.
HOA and architectural review
Most HOAs require architectural review, often with approved frame colors, a matching roof pitch, and a maximum height or footprint. Submit drawings before you sign a contract; a rejected color after installation is expensive to fix.
Wind, snow, and humidity
Screens catch wind like a sail, so wind uplift is the load that most often causes failures. In high-wind and coastal zones, posts need engineered anchoring and bracing, not just fasteners into a slab. Snow load is a roof concern: screens do not carry snow, and drifted snow can blow in, so avoid storing anything against a screen wall in a snow region. In humid and coastal climates, choose powder-coated aluminum and stainless fasteners.
DIY Screen Kits vs Professional Installation, and Maintenance
DIY screen kits
Screen kits, sold as pre-framed panels or rail-and-spline systems, let a capable homeowner screen a simple rectangular opening for a fraction of a pro price. They work best on square, level openings under an existing roof, and struggle with out-of-square frames, long spans, and doors.
Professional installation
A pro can tension screen evenly, frame doors that close properly, and anchor the structure for wind correctly. For anything with a new roof, footings, or a door, professional work is usually the better value because the failure modes are structural.
Re-screening and maintenance
Screen is the consumable part of the assembly. Expect to replace standard screen every 8 to 15 years depending on sun exposure, sooner in high-UV areas. Re-screening typically runs about $1.50 to $4 per square foot of screen, or roughly $400 to $1,200 for a full 300 sq ft patio with several panels and a door. Annual upkeep is simple: rinse the screen, check tension and spline, tighten fasteners, and touch up scratched powder coat before rust starts.
How we researched this guide
PatioHaven builds its guides from manufacturer specifications, published US cost data, standard installation practices for screened enclosures, and homeowner-reported outcomes. We cross-check cost ranges against multiple regional sources and label them as planning ranges rather than quotes. Where practice varies by climate or code, we say so. We do not accept payment for placement, and no vendor reviews or approves this content.
Frequently asked questions
Is a screened-in patio worth it?
For most homeowners who use an open patio and fight insects, yes. It is one of the lower-cost ways to add usable outdoor space, and it protects furniture and grills from rain and leaves. It is not worth it if the slab or roof is failing, or if you want year-round warmth, which points to a sunroom.
How much does it cost to screen in a patio?
Screening an existing roof and slab typically runs about $2,500 to $10,500 depending on size and region, while building a new screened structure runs roughly $15,000 to $55,000. A DIY kit on an existing structure can bring materials down to $600 to $2,800.
Can I screen in my patio myself?
You can if the patio already has a sound roof and slab and the openings are square. Rail-and-spline kits and pre-framed panels are manageable for a careful DIYer. Leave new footings, roof framing, doors, and anything requiring a permit or engineered wind anchoring to a professional.
How long do screened-in patio screens last?
Standard fiberglass screen typically lasts 8 to 15 years, with sun exposure as the main variable. Pet screen and heavier weaves often last longer in high-traffic homes, while solar screens in intense UV can degrade faster.
A screened-in patio is a practical, mid-priced upgrade that pays off in usable months and fewer bug bites, as long as you match the build to what already exists. Check the slab and roof, confirm permit and HOA requirements, then compare at least three itemized quotes. If you want shade and airflow rather than full enclosure, our guide to patio shade covers lower-cost options, and our overview of patio roofs explains the structure screening depends on. For installation, a local specialist found through our patio builders directory can measure on site.